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I’m picking up the project again after having to put it down for a while…
Looking for some input on troubleshooting – I ran through the guide and I’m worried I may have burnt something up in the process of running the TP wires (I burnt the pads off the first go-around)
Fair warning, it’s not too pretty
What step in the troubleshooting guide did you get stopped?
I couldn’t see in the photo, but make sure you have a jumper from TP4 to R5.
-Brachapologies, I’ve been swamped at the office – I’ll try to take another look tonight.
I forgot the 4th TP wire had come off, I’m going to re-solder that.
The circuit board seems a bit “gummed” up from the flux – I tried Iso alcohol to clean up a little bit ago – it just made the board seem “sticky” to me. Is there a better product for cleaning up some of the residue?
As far as the troubleshoot doc, I’ll need the pedal on and engaged or just “on”?
Also, when using the wire methods vs bridging the solder pads to close the circuit, I’ve tried to get them in the proper spot as detailed – is there a “wrong” and “right” spot on or near the components for the wire method to TP1. 2. 3. 4 etc?
For flux remover…I make my own my mixing rubbing alcohol and acetone in a 1:1 ratio. It works pretty well. You can use a toothbrush or Q-tip to clean the flux off the board with it.
For most of the steps in the troubleshooting guide the pedal just needs to be powered on. Some steps will direct you to press the bypass switch.
I don’t know what you are asking with your last question. Just attach the wires to the proper places…which it looks like you’ve already done, except for the wire that fell off.The main thing I still need to know is what step you get stuck on in the troubleshooting manual.
apologies, I tried to post twice and had problems via mobile I guess…
So, TP wires have all been run
Tap LED is in correct orientation, still not power to LED
Chip is fully seated
Signal passes and volume pot has an effect on signal, but otherwise no effect present.
I got a little tripped up on the troubleshoot doc with the “Red Areas” for probing with multimeter – am I measuring for continuity or just straight Voltage?
Main thing we need to figure out is if the microcontroller is receiving 5V from the power supply.
The red points on the voltage chart are showing all the points that should measure 5V from ground. Theoretically all the red points should be connected together and showing continuity to each other because they are all on the same voltage rail, but that’s not what we are testing.
Please test the red point on the microcontroller to see if it is getting 5V. If it is, then check to make sure R12 is soldered properly and is the correct value of resistance. If not, check the other red points to see if anything is receiving 5V.
Let me know.
-BrachI’ll check after work. Thanks so much man, don’t know how you keep up with dummies like me but I really appreciate it!
I’m getting a reading of 4.93V out of the 5V points indicated in the troubleshoot guide.
R12 is in the “standing” position and reads 10k – not sure if the measurement indicates a missed or incorrect value?
4.93V is close enough to 5V for our purposes.
As far as the green tap LED not lighting up…So when you say you don’t have power to the LED, do you mean you don’t get around 1.8V on the round pad? Is pin 5 of the microcontroller soldered properly? From your photos I can see that R12 is not in the standing position, and it should read 1K ohms…please re-measure it. Make sure you are testing the correct resistor.
For now, please ignore the fact that the tap LED is not working and skip steps 2 and 3 in the troubleshooting guide and let me know what you find.
-Brach
UPDATE -I started fresh and ordered a new kit (prob to Brach’s dismay, he was good about motivating me to troubleshoot.)
I had a couple singed components the first go around, but I’m happy to report the 2nd attempt was a success!! What a fun build.
Excellent tones out of this thing – I haven’t messed with the crossover frequencies beyond stock – is there a setting to accomplish a more traditional tremolo sound should I go do that vs harmonic?
Thanks again, great product
To clarify, I know the phase switch gets more traditional vs harmonic, just curious what the frequency crossover “options” are?
I’m glad to hear you were able to get the new one working…although I still think you could have successfully repaired the first one. There is a table in the owner’s manual that shows the crossover frequencies based on the dip switch settings. When the phase switch is on the “in” setting, the crossover frequency doesn’t matter because both sides are going up and down the same…there are no frequencies crossed over. But you still can determine the amount of highs and lows you hear based on how the trim pots are set.
I hope that answers your question.
Enjoy your Quaverato!
-Brach
