Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Another one: there should be a simple option to turn either sensor on/off independently of the other one. For the left one you can just turn it to a function that you are not using and the pitch bend isn’t applied, but otoh if I want to keep the arpeggiator set at 3 or 4 I usually just put tape over the left sensors. Is there someplace in the sensor circuitry I can add a mechanical switch myself?
Great news! I was afraid I was going to have to give up on my little project. At least for the time being I’m going to put the current board down to experience and try to not make the same mistakes again. Ordered, please send ASAP and I will be able to proceed with this little project.
Okay, I think I have wrecked the board. I’m so sorry. I want to purchase another one ASAP to continue on this project so please let me know as soon as you have any more available. I still have the working one that I built previously, but I am not going to try to modify it. I’d rather purchase another one or more kit from you ASAP and just try again.
Oh hey wow, I hadn’t noticed you responded to me! This is great! I’m going to do it ASAP, though I’m afraid I may have toasted this board. I’ll find out soon. I’ve had a couple disasters, but it may still work. If I can get another kit or more please let me know. Message me or email me or whatever in the event you have any kits lying around, pls.
I’m currently working on that foot controller thing, rebuilding it using some different parts.
Brach, you had raised the point about the danger of turning the pots too far on the foot controller. I think as this gets a little further along I can probably install stops on the skate wheels. Also, there are going to be two points in the ‘drive train’ between the skate wheel and the pot where the connection is made up of self-adhesive velcro, which should provide some flexibility and which might be set up to be sort of a failsafe for the pots.
And BTW, if you were to issue a hardware device that was nothing but the arpeggiator part of the Altura, you would still have a pretty cool device, and one that you could sell. There aren’t really many out there right now. And I don’t know if there have ever been any that determine all the arpeggio notes using *potentiometers.* That is extra cool and makes for some neat things you can do in addition to what I’m now attempting. 🙂
I am just so enthused about this Altura device, I’m hoping I can get another kit ASAP. If you have any available I’d sure love to get another one. I think it’s one of the big secrets on the internet right now in the way of musical instruments, I just love having a motion controller and this one has a brilliant little arpeggiator built in as well. It is perfect. You guys should issue a “pro” edition, with a transparent protective layer, acrylic or whatever, to protect the LED display. I think this device deserves a housing and parts really made to last.
You know, I’m sorry I haven’t gotten back with you about this lately. Progress has been slow but not entirely absent. I’ve been working on that breakout box and here is a pic:
https://i.imgur.com/7sVGWss.jpg
It works. Those are standard pots mounted on skate wheels. I was going to use big plastic jars, then decided to use smaller plastic jars, then just decided that these should suffice. The main objective was to make this something you could do with your feet, leaving your hands for waving at the Altura.
And BTW, if you ever wanted to really sell a few of these you should slightly revise the packaging and the marketing. I adore your videos but I don’t think they help sell. The product itself is absolutely brilliant.
Oh, I guess when I say “to set the tempo with precision,” I guess what I’m interested in is a visual readout of the BPM on the LCD, so I know for sure.
I am so tickled by this thing I’m going to have to try building another. If I had a single feature I’d like to request in some future model it would be to have the rate for the sequencer have a way to control it precisely and maybe have a display of it on the numeric. But it is really fun with this old Yamaha and it’s also worked with every cheap old Yamaha and Casio I’ve tried, in addition to an old Roland PX-10 I tried it with.
I also did the same with a Yamaha EZ-30 I think is the model, it’s a really nice plastic keyboard, has like 670 voices. And now I’ve tried using an Altura with a Behringer TD-3, and learned that you don’t have to use the sequencer functions, you can just use the nice midi controlled synth, which has a lot of cool voices. And this evening I’ve been playing a Yamaha PSS-795, a really old model that really works well with the Altura and has a lot of neat features. I’m making some mad sounds over here.
Okay, I have reflowed all the joints like 3 times, finally got it working! Turns out I need glasses and magnification when soldering, I found a lot more joints that didn’t look good that you can’t see very well in the photos. Just wanted you to know, it’s up and running and I plugged the Altura in to it last night and got them working together. So thanks so much!
Well it looks like those tags don’t work but anyway, you can open the images in a different window or whatever.
OH hey, here are a couple pics of my soldering from last night. If you spot anything let me know. I’m willing to get a USB Tiny as well if that advances the cause.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/l1zZsuA.jpg[/img]
and
[img]https://i.imgur.com/MuHDwIC.jpg[/img]
Hi guys, I’m in the same boat as the others posting here, I just finished assembling the PCB and the power light comes on and it appears inert otherwise. I’ve tried putting a jumper to one of the pins on the volume pot and as soon as I touch a jumper to the volume it starts buzzing, but that was the only sound I’ve gotten out of it. I had a bunch of 386 chips so I tried a different one, no resuits. I took a long hard look at all my solder joints, tried touching up a couple, no results. I have a version 3.0 board and my serial # from my sticker is zd4847. The only way I deviated from the instructions in the PDF was I put in sockets for the ICs instead of soldering them directly to the board. I think I did this and everything else correctly, not positive. Any advice?
