Forum Replies Created
I’m glad you are enjoying your Percolator. We don’t have any plans to release another amp anytime soon, but we do have several other things in the works.
Good luck with the Quaverato!
Feel free to use a socket if you would like. I just usually don’t prefer to use sockets because they can become oxidized and add resistance to the circuit…it’s just one more questionable connection (or 14, in this case). Soldering a component to the board is usually a much better option if you know you’ll never have to replace it. The reason the uC is in a socket is because some people may want to re-flash the software and sometimes it’s easier to remove the IC to do that…otherwise that would be soldered to the board too. That is just my opinion, but you can do what you’d like.
No, you were correct in your first post, it is a photo resistor. We call it an LDR, which is a light dependent resistor. We actually sort these components through a proprietary sorting process, so the pair is matched with each other. So you’ll probably need to get a new pair from us. You can try to use pre-manufactured optocouplers, but I can’t guarantee the results. You’ll want to find optocouplers that get under 10k (under 5k is better) in the light and over 5M in the dark. The should respond relatively quickly too, within 1 second they should reach these values. If you can find some optocouplers that respond in this way, that will probably work. But feel free to experiment too…pretty much any optocouplers will work, but how well they work just depends how close they are to the proper specs. Email us if you want to order some new LDRs from us.
-BrachFebruary 5, 2024 at 9:38 am in reply to: Code Bug in MIDI Channel Assignment via PC Message #41910
Great! I’m glad you got it figured out.
Enjoy your Quaverato!
-BrachFebruary 1, 2024 at 2:46 pm in reply to: Code Bug in MIDI Channel Assignment via PC Message #41899
I’m sorry for the trouble. That sounds frustrating. I don’t know what is going on, but I do know this bug has been fixed, so I’m not sure why it’s not working for you. It sounds like the pedal is not changing channels for some reason. I’m not sure what to tell you about this other than to make sure you really are in calibration mode when you send the midi packet (test this by playing with the MIX knob and seeing if it responds the way described on page 11 of the owners manual). Also make sure you are sending only on channel 2, which I’m sure you probably are.
I’m glad to hear that it’s working well now.
As far as the volume issue…it could be anything in the analog circuit.
Are you able to hear sound from the on-board speaker?…is it very loud?
I couldn’t tell you specifically what the problem is. I know you were bridging some pins together on the volume pot. Make sure they are all soldered well. Check for other obvious things in that part of the circuit like solder joints. You could just re-flow all the joints in that part of the circuit to ensure they are all good. That’s all I know to say for now. I’m sorry that I can’t be more helpful in this case.
4.93V is close enough to 5V for our purposes.
As far as the green tap LED not lighting up…So when you say you don’t have power to the LED, do you mean you don’t get around 1.8V on the round pad? Is pin 5 of the microcontroller soldered properly? From your photos I can see that R12 is not in the standing position, and it should read 1K ohms…please re-measure it. Make sure you are testing the correct resistor.
For now, please ignore the fact that the tap LED is not working and skip steps 2 and 3 in the troubleshooting guide and let me know what you find.
It seems like you may have widened the tube sockets too much…try tightening them by prying the 2 pieces of metal in each socket closed. Pay close attention to pin 10 (near TP4 that is measuring 0V).
See if anything changes after you do that. If not, let me know what the other TPs are measuring. Don’t leave the amp on too long when you measure these things, because it might not be too good for the tube to be exposed to these wrong voltages. Also, make sure you have an 8 ohm load plugged in to the amp while it’s on.
Main thing we need to figure out is if the microcontroller is receiving 5V from the power supply.
The red points on the voltage chart are showing all the points that should measure 5V from ground. Theoretically all the red points should be connected together and showing continuity to each other because they are all on the same voltage rail, but that’s not what we are testing.
Please test the red point on the microcontroller to see if it is getting 5V. If it is, then check to make sure R12 is soldered properly and is the correct value of resistance. If not, check the other red points to see if anything is receiving 5V.
Let me know.
For flux remover…I make my own my mixing rubbing alcohol and acetone in a 1:1 ratio. It works pretty well. You can use a toothbrush or Q-tip to clean the flux off the board with it.
For most of the steps in the troubleshooting guide the pedal just needs to be powered on. Some steps will direct you to press the bypass switch.
I don’t know what you are asking with your last question. Just attach the wires to the proper places…which it looks like you’ve already done, except for the wire that fell off.
The main thing I still need to know is what step you get stuck on in the troubleshooting manual.
What step in the troubleshooting guide did you get stopped?
I couldn’t see in the photo, but make sure you have a jumper from TP4 to R5.
That is good that it’s working now…at least somewhat.
The note staying on thing can happen when the keyboard doesn’t have a good ground reference. So make sure the power supply you are using is solid. It can also happen if one of the keyboard resistors isn’t soldered properly or has too much solder on its joints.
I’m glad it’s working, but it is very concerning that the voltage at TP6 is nearly twice what it should be. My first thought is to ask if you are sure you are measuring it correctly. If so, is R3 and R4 the correct values? What voltage do you get at TP10?
I was wondering if that trouble was somehow related to the meter. I’m glad to hear you figured it out.
Keep me posted when you install the new parts.
Yes, that would do it! I didn’t even notice that…I was so focused on looking at the solder joints! Good noticing. Chances are, the opamp has broken now, so you do need to replace it. Please follow the steps in this blog to remove it, as to keep your board from getting damaged: https://zeppelindesignlabs.com/the-easy-way-to-remove-dip-ics/
You can order a new IC and socket from https://www.taydaelectronics.com/
Tayda is a good place to get all kinds of pedal parts at a reasonable price.
On a side note, I’m glad that you got the trim pot set.