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The Quaverato should work with any device that sends MIDI messages, but it doesn’t work with expression controllers. The VPM-1, our volume/expression mod for the Ernie Ball Jr pedal, is not a MIDI pedal…it’s only capable of sending expression voltages, so it wouldn’t work with the Quaverato without an expression voltage-to-MIDI converter.
In the lab, we used the Behringer FCB1010 to test and design the Quaverto, as well as the Disaster Area DMC-3XL (which also can convert expression voltages to MIDI). So I know those 2 controllers work, but basically anything that can send MIDI messages can control the Quaverato.
-BrachAugust 5, 2021 at 7:59 am in reply to: Sound coming through in bypass/bypass switch not staying onnot staying on/off #30023
Good! That was an easy fix!
Email me from our contact page on our website. We’ll try to figure something out.
-BrachJuly 27, 2021 at 9:00 am in reply to: Sound coming through in bypass/bypass switch not staying onnot staying on/off #30004
I’m pretty confused by your question.
Look at this video (specifically look at the video from 2:20 to about 2:50): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnvNSf8KHvo
How is your bypass switch behaving differently than the one in the video?
Something is wrong about your power supply. Please measure the voltage across the power supply jack to make sure it is really 9V and not 12V.
On the original power supply you were using (the 9V, 1000mA supply), is the jack polarity correct (positive on the sleeve, negative on the tip)?
Generally, all the intermittent issues (of the pedal not working at all, and then not passing signal…etc) are probably related to bad solder joints. It might help if I could see some detailed, in focus, pictures of both sides of your circuit board. Try to bend the pots up some to capture the solder joints under the pots. If i could see the your solder joints and build quality, I could probably offer some better suggestions as to what direction to lean toward in troubleshooting.
Work through the troubleshooting guide, step 2.
Let me know what you find.
Contact me via our website “contact” page and let me know your serial number (not in this forum).
I want to check on the warranty status.
Have you tried any linear power supplies (the old kind of wall wart that has a big, heavy transformer inside) instead of switch mode power supplies (the newer, very light weight wall warts)?
Let me know what you find with the calibration mode.
I’m sorry to hear about your Quaverato trouble. Thank you for sharing that video, it is very helpful to hear what you are describing. That is a very annoying issue. It does sound very much like a ring modulator.
I have never experienced this particular issue, so we’ll have to try to troubleshoot it together.
First, please try to use a different power supply. A battery would be best to test the pedal out…if you have a 9v battery snap to barrel jack adapter:
…or something like it that would allow you to hook up a 9v battery to the pedal. I’m wondering if the pedal is getting clean enough power, that is isolated enough. This test will see if it is an issue related to the type of power supply that you are using.
Another test you could try is to use “calibration mode” to test each side (high and low) separately of the signal path to see if the issue is caused by the combination of the 2 sides (like a typical ring modulator circuit). I’m interested to see if the weird sound is still occurring when only one side (high or low) is heard.
Try these tests and let me know what you find.
I’m sorry about this late reply. The last 2 days were very busy and hectic around here.
Thanks for answering my previous questions. I’m going to assume that your LDR pair is matched (because we matched them when we assembled your kit) so the issue has to be that the LED is not getting bright enough to cause the LDR to lower it’s resistance to a reasonable value.
-Check everything in the circuit between the microcontroller pwm output and the LED. They are: Q1, VR8, and R8.
-Check to make sure the solder joints on these components are good and there are no shorts between any of their solder pads.
-Check to make sure all these components are correct values.
-Make sure R8 is getting 5V on the correct pin (as shown in the trouble shooting guide) and compare the voltage of the other pin on R8 to the same pin on R7.
-Test to make sure the trim pot is working by measuring it’s resistance….from the middle pin to the one of the side pins. Then turn the trim pot about 10 or 12 full turns and re-measure the same pins.
-You should also compare the optocoupler LED voltage (as in the trouble shooting guide…the yellow pads in the voltage chart)…both of them should be around 1.8V.
Look into all that stuff and let me know what you find.
Sorry about the tuner trouble.
Was the tuner output working on your previous pedal board setup?
Do you have the expression mod installed on your VPM-1?
Pin 5 of U2 is fine with that voltage.
I think you may be mistaken by the role of VR8…notice the schematic. VR8 limits the voltage of the LED on the high side optocoupler, while TP1/TP2 are connected to the high side LDR. So this makes me wonder if the solder jumpers are already soldered when you are making this measurement. If so, unsolder them and re-calibrate the trimpots. Let me know if this was or wasn’t the issue…it’s important for me to rule this out when deciding what we should do next.
This is almost certainly related to bad connections (ie solder joints) within the circuit. The fact that it is behaving differently even though nothing external has changed indicates to me that something internal has changed…like some connections are intermittent. Please make sure the paper insulation has not been punctured and nothing is shorting to the back of the pots. I suggest reflowing the solder joints (all of them) to ensure that they are all working properly. If you haven’t soldered many projects yet, make sure your iron is getting hot enough and you are using the proper amount of solder on each joint…it’s easy for joints to be bad if there isn’t enough solder on them.
That’s my fault! I’m so sorry, I told you the wrong pin to solder the wire to….it supposed to be pin 4, not 3. I’m so sorry! I was going from memory yesterday when I told you the wrong pin, but after reviewing the schematic I realize that pin 3 is the bypass pin.
The good news is that you don’t need to solder to pin 4 on the microcontroller, if you don’t want to…there is a little via (a little hole through the board) right below R16 (10K resistor) that you can solder the wire to. That may be easier than soldering to the IC pin, but maybe not, now that you have some practice doing that. If you are wondering which via it is, it should be connected to pin 4…just use your continuity tester on your meter to test it.
Good luck and sorry for the bad information yesterday.
Yes, there is always a way to bypass pads by running jumper wires. If the square pad is damaged then run a jumper from one of the switch lugs (either one is fine) to any of the ground pads around the board.
If the round pad is damaged then run a jumper from the other switch lug to pin 3 of the microcontroller. Just tack the wire to the top of the pin close to the body of the IC. Remember to tin the wire and pin first. And only use just enough solder that you need, it’s easy to over do it and bridge the IC pins together. Otherwise, you can always remove the board from the chassis and attach the jumper to pin 3 on the solder side of the board.