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Clive,
You could use a regular pair of Vactrols with the Quaverato…it won’t hurt anything. Just make sure they get up to around at least 1M ohm when dark and at least under 10k when light. I can’t remember the VTL5x part number associated with these values, but the datasheet should tell you.
-BrachDaniel,
I hope other people chime in too, but i feel the same way about the feel of the EB VP Jr. The axle is in the perfect position to get good accuracy in sweeping through the taper…unlike those volume pedals build on a wah pedal chassis.
In designing this mod, i tried to make the sweep feel as natural as possible…and that’s why we gave it 5 different tapers, so people could choose the one that feels the best for them. I’ve also noticed that a big part of the feel (at least to me) has to do with where in the sweep the action happens…meaning where most of the volume change occurs. Through the calibration process you can decide where the 0 volume point is and where the max volume point is, so that, in conjunction with the different tapers gives a lot of options for setting it up in a way that feels right for your foot.
Anyway, i hope others pitch in with their opinions too.
-BrachCheck out the troubleshooting guide under the documentation tab of the Quaverato product page. It gives the steps you should take to diagnose the problem.
Good luck.
-BrachNow as i’m interpreting this depth knob issue with more info, it’s sounding more and more similar to the other guy’s issue at the top of this post. So i’m thinking it probably is the microcontroller. This is a weird problem and it seems like something with pin 23’s ADC got damaged somehow. The only recourse right now is to get a new microcontroller…or you can try re-flashing it, if you have the means. Otherwise, contact us (via email) about getting a new microcontroller.
I’m sorry about this. I really hope your experience with the Altura goes better.
Take care,
-BrachBummer. So, i guess you need a new microcontroller, or you can try to re-flash it (via our updater app and an USBtiny ISP, if you have access to one). That is too bad. I’m perplexed too about why that pin is so fragile….i’m sorry. I know it has something to do with the internal architecture of the chip. Anyway, contact us via email about getting a new IC. Our address is info “at” zeppelindesignlabs “dot” com.
Once again, I’m sorry about this fragile IC.
-BrachThat does seem strange….double check to make sure you are really testing the correct pins.
Also, check for continuity between pin 23 and the center pin of the depth pot. If the center pin of the depth pot is changing, pin 23 should be changing too, unless that connection is broken somehow.
You also may want to use a ground point on the PCB…like the point where the grounding wire is soldered…just in case the ground lug isn’t making good connection with the chassis.
-BrachThere is a way to do that. It involves disassembling the pedal to get to the spring tension washers on the axle. From there, those washers just need to be re-bent to add more tension to the treadle. I’m actually working on a VPM-1 troubleshooting guide that will have instructions on how to do this…with pictures. But being that we are in pandemic mode currently, i don’t know when i’ll be able to get it done.
Just letting you know something is in the works.
-BrachRobert,
I’m glad to hear the installation went well and the VPM-1 works great for you.
Using a tablet is a great idea. Yes, I’m sure black and white prints are not as helpful….it’s also a lot of paper.
Thanks for the post.
Take care.
-BrachIs the voltage on pin 23 changing as you turn the depth knob? It should be connected to the center pin of the depth knob. Make sure your meter’s probe isn’t touching any other pins on the micro when you are testing pin 23.
-BrachNicholas,
Unfortunately, this sounds like the microcontroller may have been damaged. But when you measure the resistance between pin 4 on the micro and the round pad of “Tap sw”, you get 1.5 what? What units? What about when you measure the continuity between pin 4 of the micro and the square pad of the “tap sw”…are they connected?
-BrachGrady,
That doesn’t sound like the microcontroller to me. If it was the microcontroller, you’d have more problems…the other features wouldn’t be working properly….but i may be wrong. To me, it seems like a bad solder joint somewhere. Start by re-flowing the solder joints on the depth knob. But just for good measure check to see what voltage you get on the center pin of the depth pot (or pin 23 of the micro)…you should be getting from 0v to 5v as you turn it up (from counter clockwise). Also make sure the micro is seated in it’s socket very well.Thanks for the question.
We designed the chassis on the VPM-1 to fit on the VP Jr line of Ernie Ball pedals. Unfortunately it won’t easily screw into the bigger original line of Ernie Ball volume pedals…the hole spacing is a little off. It probably would be possible to drill a hole through the aluminum volume pedal chassis to accommodate the VPM-1 chassis, but it might be tricky because you’d have to drill through part of the “counter sink” (or chamfer) of the original hole.
I just tested the electronics on the the original EB that i have laying around and everything seems to work well. The magnet lines up nicely to the sensor board.
One thing that i noticed was that when i took the string off the pedal flopped around and didn’t stay in one set position. So i took the treadle/axle mechanism apart and noticed that i didn’t have the spring disc washers that the VP Jr pedals have to keep the treadle tight. I ordered some of these spring washers so hopefully that will fix the loose treadle. This is the only classic EB volume pedal that I took apart so i’m not sure if it’s normal for them to not have the spring washers…apparently it was for that production run.
So to answer your question, if we there’s enough interest in the VPM-1 for the classic EB volume pedal, we’ll look into starting a production run with a new chassis and face label (keeping the rest of the design the same). But we might have to offer these spring washers and instruction on how to mod that part of the pedal too.
-BrachAlright. I understand the frustration and needing to take a break. It can be very confusing working on the solder side of the board where nothing is labeled. But I do think we are close to figuring this thing out. When you are available to look at it again start by checking over the signal path from R15 to pin 3.
Take care.
-BrachOk good, that must be where the problem is. Test for continuity across switch 3 on S5 to see if the problem is with that component or if it is open somewhere else…i’m assuming only switch 3 is on currently. If the pins of switch 3 on S5 are not connected flip on switch 4 or 2 just to see if you can get signal through the LPF. You may have to re-adjust the low side trim pot.
EDIT…i just re-read your post and it seems like you tested across the switch already. If so, test from R15 to R21/22/23/24…it should be connected. Then measure the resistance across R22 to see if it is really 18K. Then test across the switch (switch 3 should be the only one connected, do it again for good measure). Then test to see if the other side of S5 (the opposite side from the resistors) is connected to pin 3 of U2. …just figuring out where in that signal path it’s not getting through. My guess is S5 because that’s the only component with moving parts.
