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Love this pedal and with a couple of my songs it is just what I needed. Also wanted to let you know that I got your mail. Thanks for the extras. Always nice to have inventory.
And, I hope you don’t mind my tinkering with the look. I’m just a DIY mod kinds of guy, including cosmetics. I like the look with the original knobs and may even go back to those. These knobs I think give it a little vintage vibe and a nice contrast to the black and grey.
This sounds incredible through my clone Tweed Princeton in a cab with 2x8s. It’s hardwired by me and is pretty much my favorite amp. I’d gig out with it if I could but it just wouldn’t cut without micing. I’ll have to send you some sound files with the Quaverato.
Thanks for all you help here in your forum and with the mailing. Such support is invaluable and very much appreciated.
Thanks. I’ve sent you a photo of the pedal with the new knobs — Fender cream-colored barrel knows. They look great and add some nice contrast. But more than anything else I’m loving the sound of this pedal. BTW, my daughter is Genevieve of Choo Choo Soul on Disney Channel/Disney Jr. and this pedal ultimately will end up in her studio. She’s excited after hearing it recently. But I get to use it for awhile first.
Thanks for that information. I don’t plan on having the pedal on top of the amp in general. I was just testing and noticed all the noise. I’m keeping it off the amp from now on. And I asked another question in another thread about power supply milliamps and you just answered it here. Thanks. So I guess the minimum milliamps should be 100ma. I think it is rare for a PS to be less than 100ma but I suppose there are some out there.
That’s a good question. What is the minimum milliamps that a power supply should have for this pedal? I know that it’s OK to run a pedal with higher milliamps than rated but problems ensue when the supply milliamps is too low.
Not trying to be pedantic (you may have already tried) but perhaps the locking nut on the knob. I guess it would be a pot gone bad, or even something as simple as a bad solder joint that finally stopped working. These would be all my first thoughts. Good luck. I just built mine and haven’t had to troubleshoot as yet.
Made some progress last night on the board. Got all the resistor, capacitors installed. I stopped after installing the relay. I’m using sockets for the transistors, opamp and midi IC — waiting for the socket for the opamp which should arrive tomorrow. That’s OK, slow is good.
A note, the instructions for Trimpot VR10has image 70 so what is probably and older board design. It confused me as to how to install it positioned correctly. So I put it aside. Later, I saw images 79 and 80 and they show the board I have and the correct orientation. So all is good.
Next step (starting tomorrow) will be installing input/output jacks and go from there.
I screwed up the heat shrink tubing for one of the optical couplers. Fortunately, I’m a heat shrink junkie and I have LOTS of heat shrink tubing. So now one coupler is black and the other is blue. At least high pass and low pass will be easily identifiable.
Also, I have a jewelers loop which helped a lot in checking the integrity of my soldering and any possible shorts (there were none). That loop has been indispensable. I highly recommend anyone doing work on these small boards have one in their tool kit.Mine magnifies 8x which is plenty to see minute areas on the board easily.
I will likely finish up tomorrow evening but we shall see. Just want to have the socket for the TL074. It should arrive tomorrow.
The cat just lounged quietly on the workbench and didn’t really give me any trouble. I guess she felt she was supervising.
Started by roughing up the case exterior with some sand paper and just applied a first coat of spray paint. I’d rather do powder coat but I don’t have the equipment or facility for that. But I’ve applied a light first coat and I’ll apply at least two more. And (boring) I’m using black paint. Still, it should look good in the end.
Also looking at using old Fender brown face knobs, of which I have a few. They are a cream color and will provide some contrast.
Cool. I should have looked in your parts section. And that is yet another reason to us IC sockets on my build. Thanks.
I’ve searched for USBTiny Programmer on the internet and all kinds of things come up. What do you recommend that will work with your pedal?
Thanks, that helpful. I figured the draw would be high in this pedal, so I anticipate short battery life. I only ask because I go to jams where I usually only get up for a few songs. So a battery option would ease the transition. On my board, it will have power from an adapter. I found a solution on Amazon that also has a small pouch that you can velcro to the side of the pedal. I’ll let you know how it works out.
Oh, and We Want an Optical Compressor (ok, it’s just me, but I bet there are others). Perhaps the Quavicomp.
